This is a slightly larger bodied Porta Pi Arcade, with the intent to use a PC or dedicated (albiet small) JAMMA arcade PCB. Overal body footprint is about 13% larger than the Porta Pi Arcade. The most significant change is the elongated control panel, for extended play and comfort. Construction is identical to the Porta Pi Arcade. Increase in arcade size is a result to house smaller JAMMA Based PCBs (think the xx-in-1 multi game PCBs) or conpact PCs.
This kit is recomended the for self-motivated builder as the specific instructions are not available. However assembly is identical to the Porta Pi Arcade. If you think this kit looks difficult, then this kit is not for you. This JAMMArCADE is intended to satisfy a wish list of features that started after the creation of the Porta Pi : Slightly larger interior, larger control panel allowing more flexibility for DIY-ers.
Don't want to use a Raspberry Pi? The cabinet can accommodate small, older video game consoles or single board computers. The joystick and buttons can be hard-wired to the console's controller turning it into a dedicated unit. Or, fit a mini-ITX motherboard or ultra-compact PC inside and it becomes a super powered mini PC arcade. You can also fit a small JAMMA PCB inside, small PCBs like the 60-in-1 boards found on ebay.
This kit fits the Raspberry Pi B (512MB rev 2) B+, Pi 2, and Pi 3 models.
Full Kit Includes:
NOT INCLUDED IN ANY KIT:
Raspberry Pi, micro SD Card (8GB+ is recommended), the RPi's respective power cable (micro usb).
Purchase a Kit! (Can't see the button? Use a desktop web browser and disable your script blockers)
It is highly suggested you read this entire webpage and any pages that are linked in detail to understand the build before you buy.
See the BoM (Parts List) for details regarding what is included in each kit.
Button colors available: Purple, Red, Green, Orange, Yellow, Black, White, Blue.
The default color mix is: 1 Yellow, 1 Orange, 1 Green, 1 Blue, 1 Red, 1 Purple.
Want to replace the Happ joystick with a Sanwa joystick? Add the update option (below) to your cart.
Clear acrylic for the marquee, LCD bezel, and control panel. Good for protecting your paint/artwork from heavy use. Also completes the look.
Note: Be sure to select the correct cabinet model from the drop down menu below. I have one button containing all acrylic cabinet model add-ons, make sure you pick the appropriate model for your cabinet.
Go to Arcade Parts page and add to cart.
For real. This webpage is the 'guide'. There is no manual. Use the Porta Pi Arcade Assembly manual as your baseline to build this. If you email me with a question that is answered on this page or video, I die a little on the inside everytime. I will just say come back to this page.
Below covers some suggestions, pitfalls, things-not-to-do, general tips, and details regrading assembly. If something differs from the kit, I will address it here. If I get a ton of emails about a specific step, I will add details here. Do note: This cabinet design is geared toward an open-ended conrstuction so some things can adjusted as you see fit.
" How long does it take to build a cabinet? "
|Painting||2-5 days (paint has to dry bro)|
|Electronics||4-8 hours (depends on skill level)|
Tools Required for build:
-Wire crimpers (22AWG)
-12inch bar clamp (optional)
-Dremmel or hot glue gun (one or other, not both)
-Drill + drill bits + counter sink bit
-Bar clamps (2-3 reccomended)
-Electrical tape ( and heatshrink if you're fancy)
If you're doing it right, the painting process should take longer than assembling the arcade. Currently for this kit, I am using underlaminate plywood. It's not amazing plywood but it does has a super smooth surface on one side. This saves some labor when priming and trying to achieve a smooth surface for the final finish coats. Let me emphasize again- the process of filling, sanding, and priming, is not an area where you want to cut corners. Over the course of two years painting has been a trial-and-error process for me. I am not great at it, but experience has payed off. These products are only suggestions based on my experience, not endorsements. "Ryobi, if you're reading this I could use desktop bandsaw. ok thanks!"
I bought Kilz latex primer because I heard it went on thick. And it does, almost too thick. I asked around and found out about Floetrol, which is a paint conditioner (additive). You can thin the latex primer with some water, and that helps when using a foam brush, but this Floetrol helps in a different way. The mix ratio is more a magic number than anything, but when you find it it does two big things to the paint: a) It keeps the wet-time longer b) Makes the paint more viscous and helps the leveling of the paint (brush strokes sorta fade better). I don't swear by this stuff, but it seems to have helped acheive a more uniform surface with thick latex paint. It makes the latex paint easier to work with when going for a smooth finish. Sure I could use other paints that might be better suited for this job, but there are so many types a trial-and-error method would burn me out. If you know something I don't, please share the knowledge. It helps everyone :)
Sand + Fill
A powered orbital sander is a must have for getting the panels flush at the joints. I do like the elmers filler that goes on purple and dries white. Works very well with a putty knife.
I finish all my cabinets with gloss spray paint. Minium of 3-4 coats; That's about two cabinets worth of paint in a can. I found the colors are vibrant with the Rustoleum brand. Not to metion their nozzles usually dont gunk-up on me. Valspar you gotta fix those nozzles, bro.
The speaker brackets are similar to the Porta Pi Arcade with a small change. The rear panel of the arcade is flat on 3 sides- I removed the finger joints to make for better aesthetics. With this change, the brackets must be glued as shown, so the rear panel has something rest against when securing with screws. If you get sloppy when painting, you might add thickness to either the rear panel or inside back of the cabinet. It might be a tight fit if you do this, so sanding might be required.
This kit gives you the option to select the power supply voltage included with your kit. If you choose something other than 5V, say 12V, and are using a Raspberry Pi in the arcade: You MUST use a voltage regulator to drop the voltage down to 5V before connecting to the RPi. See this for details.
The majority of the cabinet electronics are powered off 12V, some require 5V. A DC-DC step down converter is for said electronics that require 5V input. The step down converter must be adjusted (turn the potentiometer knob) until ~5.15V is on the output. By default (i.e. out of the box) it's almost a straight pass through (with 12V input). USE A VOLTMETER when calibrating the output while turning the pot knob. If you skip this step and send 12V to your Raspberry Pi or JAMMA PCB you will regret it so much.
Here's a more literal wiring diagram that mimics what I am doing in the video above; hopefully it makes the overall wiring easier to follow.
Shown below is what you essentially must fabricate to copy this build. You do not have to build it this way, if you don't I cannot offer help.
Please note, due to a varity of LED light strips out there, depending on what you buy and how many you use in the arcade, you might draw too much current for the supplied 2A 12V power supply. The power supply included has thermal overload / over current shutdown. If you exceed the current/thermal limit, the psu will shut off and reset. No harm done, but just be aware that the LEDs will add a significant current draw to your cabinet.
In the near future I will switch to 12V 3A psu, but I must use my current inventory up first.
Step-by-step of the power diagram.
Shown in the video I connect power from a power switch to an audio amp using a male DC cable. Plastic molded cables like these are expensive, and are only necessary for cables that are external. You could make their own male DC plug that you can solder wires to. Remeber Center= positive, outside is GND if following my build. Making this cable is optional, you can solder to the Vin and GND connections under amplifier's DC jack as an alternative. I'll leave this up to you.
Using a Pandora's Box 4? I would advise reading up on my review. There are couple nice features that are not documented very well by the MFG, like a built in 10w amp.
I only stock one Sanwa Joystick, which has a molex connector. You'll find with a JAMMA harness this wont work with out some modifications. You will have to snip the crimp ends off and solder the ends together. If you're using some other joystick, dont assume the pinout diagram is correct :)
You might see it in the video. It's already been removed from kits. If you look at the MVS model in the gallery below, this was a backing piece to help reinforce, but mostly locate where the front mounted button would go below the control panel. You might notice the hole is off-center, and that's to place the button between the joystick and 6 button set; the only place where it fits. After I made two more of these arcades, I decied against a 7th button and scrapped this piece. *the more you know*
"Motivational" Gallery Below. These are cabinets I built that reflect this kit's design.
Legal Stuff. (because reasons)
Under no circumstances will Retro Built Games, LLC or Ryan Bates be responsible for any loss or damages, including personal injury or death, that may results from your engagement in the activity demonstrated in the affilated videos, website or related documentation. You also assume all risk and liability that may result in such activities. Retro Built Games, LLC disclaims all warranties.
Copyright (c) 2016 Ryan Bates. All rights reserved.
Copyright (c) 2016 Retro Built Games, LLC. All rights reserved.
No part of this website may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher.
The software mentioned in this how-to holds copyrights by its respective authors. Said software is "AS IS" and should be downloaded, installed, and used at your own risk. Ryan Bates and Retro Built Games, LLC disclaims all warranties of any kind, either express or implied, as to the software, including, but not limited to, losses, damages, claims or costs including and indirect, consequential, or incidental damages, any lost profits or lost savings, personal injury even if Ryan Bates or Retro Built Games, LLC has been advised of the possibility of such loss, damages, claims, or cost.
Under no circumstances shall Retro Built Games, LLC or Ryan Bates be liable to any user for direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, special, or exemplary damages, arising from or relating to this agreement, the software, or user's use or misuse of the software or hardware.
Neither this agreement nor any documentation furnished under it is intended to express or imply any warranty that the operation of this compilation of software will be uninterrupted, functional, or error‐free. I tend to make a few typos.
Retro Built Games reserves the right to make any changes to the kit design, or supplied kit items or materials without notice. Actual item may differ from shown pictures. Read the entire page carefully as these changes are documented in the appropriate areas.