Arcade Parts

Protect that control panel from greasy fingers! Also adds a nice 'sheen' to the overal look. 

Panels are clear, 1/16" thick acrylic.

How-To Install: The joystick mounting screws must be countersunk. Remove the arcade buttons, insert the clear cover, and re-install the arcade buttons. The clear cover is held in-place by the arcade buttons. (another reason why I supply the thread+nut style arcade buttons).
NOTE: These will only fit the current designs (Suzo Happ or Sanwa (JAP) joystick). If you have an older model Porta Pi Arcade purchased before Nov 2014, this cover will not fit (the joystick cutout is shifted left 1/4" on older models).

Building a large arcade cabinet around your Raspberry Pi? Wish you had an easier way to wire to each GPIO? Use the Arcade Screw Terminal V1.1 Breakout board.

All the GPIOs are brought out to a standard screw terminal (5mm pitch) and are labled again at the screw terminal of their GPIO# (not pinout number of the header). This shield also has 3 extra GNDs for convenience (in the form of 0.1" headers or solderable holes.

Available in Bare Board only.

*The screw terminals needed are 5mm pitch.

The IDE cable pictured is not included. I reccomend going to a goodwill or anywhere that has old computer junk and getting an IDC cable. Pro Tip: Ohm out the cable and make sure it's still functional and a one-to-one pinout before connecting. I made this assumption without checking and killed a RPi :(

You can use the extra long stacking header on top of the RPi in a "true" shield configuration, but I admit it looks weird. The Raspberry Pi is not included.

$1.50 + shipping. You can find this in on my ebay page.

Already have a monitor and cabinet? Need the rest of the guts? This Starter Kit contains all the basic parts needed to get started (or finish) your own mini arcade design. As a result from popular demand (many many emails) this Arcade Starter kit is based directly on the parts used in my Porta Pi and other mini arcades. In other words, it's a Porta Pi Kit excluding the LCD & wood cabinet shell.
You'll be happy to know it inlcudes the 30cm long female/female jumper wires which are great for interfacing with the Raspberry Pi and other 0.1" header based boards. You get the option of which power supply you want bundled (5V or 12V) as the stereo amp will take either. You can also pick which Joystick you want; Happ or Sanwa. 

Building an arcade machine with the Raspberry Pi? How about this nice break-out board for easing arcade control wiring to the Pi's GPIOs. Check it out here.

The perfect-fitting LCD for the 10" HD Porta Pi Arcade... or your next project. This 10" LCD has a resolution of 1280x800 pixels and includes the appropriate driver board PCB, button PCB and ribbin cable. Compatible with HDMI, VGA, and composite video devices. The tiny PCB with buttons controls the monitor's functions such as brightness, contrast, input select and similar. The LCD panel measures 149 x 228 x 4 mm.

There are slew of datasheets on the web for this LCD and slightly ambiguous ebay descriptions for identical screens. From my observation and testing this screen can be powered from 5-12V DC. I get these from my vendor who uses a higher quality LCD. The driver board is very common; however, this TFT LCD is a little thicker and of better build quality. These parts are OEM. Note: the button PCB may differ slightly.

Pro-tips for use: When using HDMI make sure this LCD powers on at the same time or before the video device initiates the HDMI handshake. If you power on your video device, then this LCD the 'HDMI handshake' will not complete and your video device will be unable to communicate with this screen. Power cycling with resolve the issue, but simultaneous power-on is key here.

Arcade Push Button w/ microswitch.
  Brand: Suzo Happ
  Style: Concave plunger (American style)

  Size: Shaft Diameter = 1.125" (28mm);  
       Microswitch has .187" terminals.

       Fits control panels up to 1.0" thick

  Material: Nylon

Each button comes with micro switch and threaded nylon nut.

Available in Purple, Red, Yellow, Green, Orange, Blue, Black, and White

A standard in Japanese arcades and fight sticks. This is an official Sanwa joystick with Omron micro switches broken out to a molex-style male terminal connector. This joystick has a lighter feel with a quick/short action.

I buy these in bulk, so do not expect Sanwa retail packacking (they usually come a small white box).

Suzo-Happ 8-way competition joystick. This bat-top style became the standard for American machines in the late 80's to current.  A tough joystick with a firm feel and medium action.

USB Trackball with USB/PS2 connections. This is the smallest trackball I can find for arcades.Ball Diameter is 2.0inches. The included cable has three wires that you can connect (to GND) that serve as the LEFT, RIGHT, & MIDDLE mouse buttons.   Works by simply plugging the usb cable into the Pi. It's not the most eligant solution, but it's a trackball :)

Note 1: This trackball consumes a slightly larger amount of power than most USB HID peripherals, therefore if you are using this with your Porta Pi Arcade and your arcade is using a 5V power supply; you will need to upgrade the power to a 12V system similar to adding a LED backlight. 

Note 2: There is not a ground wire in the cable that you can easibly get to for connecting the mouse clicks to arcade buttons. You must wire the button return path to another GND in your build, like an used GND GPIO. I know, I was bummed too about that design 'feature'.

Want to add this to the Porta Pi Arcade? You can find the custom trackball control panel here.

Barrier Strip, 5 Pole.

UL Listed. Double row, 20Amp. When you need more connection points for power. A barrier strip is shown in my JAMMArCADE assembly video. This is not a cheap barrier strip you might find on ebay. I like it, which is why I bought way too many. 

Rocker Switch: SPST

Single Pole, Single Throw.  A basic On/Off switch. UL listed part. Fits the square cutout found on my kits. "Clicks", or locks into place.

Rocker Switch: SPDT

Single Pole, Double Throw. When you want to select between two different sources/inputs/ouputs. Center is OFF, plus two positions. Used in my add a battery pack video.  Fits the square cutout found on my kits. "Clicks", or locks into place.